The Urban Terroir: How City Dwellers Are Rewriting The Rules Of Modern Viticulture
A new generation of intrepid farmers are defying the rules of traditional viticulture as they’re growing grapes in some of the busiest cities in the world.
Although metropolitan areas lack the large acres of land, clean air, and specific soil and climate conditions needed to produce quality wine grapes, local residents are making the most of abandoned lots and building rooftops, turning them into urban vineyards.
Naysayers and traditional viticulturists view urban viticulture as a logistically flawed and gimmicky pursuit, and critics say that exposure to soil and air pollution could potentially produce off-flavors and tainted grapes.
However, a recent study published by the International Society for Horticultural Science shows that urban vineyards can flourish as scientists were able to identify which specific grape varieties are tough enough to survive in hot, concrete-heavy environments.
Lately, grassroots efforts are underway in major cities all over the globe, with locals growing and harvesting different types of grapes to make locally produced wine. Here’s how city dwellers around the world are rewriting the rules of modern viticulture.
The Nerima Wine Project- Tokyo, Japan
Experts view grape cultivation as a valuable tool for environmental resilience and community engagement. Not only does it boost biodiversity and improve soil health, but it also brings neighbors together to work on a common project, building trust and strengthening ties. One urban community that is currently experiencing these benefits is Nerima, located in the suburban fringe of Tokyo, Japan.
This unassuming residential area is where you’ll find grape vines growing in open lots, and it’s all thanks to The Nerima Wine Project, a collaboration between local farmers, restaurants, and Tokyo Winery. This initiative aims to produce 100 percent Nerima-grown wine while preserving the area’s rich farming land.
Local residents participate as “farm mates,” and they help with hands-on tasks like pruning, training branches, and harvesting. All the harvested grapes are taken to Tokyo Winery for processing, and the wines are bottled and sold in local shops and farmer’s markets.
Through the efforts of volunteers, the farming project has expanded and now has six working vineyards operating in Nerima.
Grape Expectations- Bristol, England
England is one of the world’s most underrated wine regions. But lately, oenophiles are starting to discover the allure of English wineries as they’re situated on historic land, but they use the latest in green energy technology, such as solar panels and air-source heat pumps.
Doing so helps wineries meet sustainability goals while producing award-winning sparkling wines. Some urban viticulturists in the UK are also taking an organic approach to winemaking, with a few locals in Bristol growing pesticide-free grapes in back gardens and allotments.
A small group of Bristol winemakers are making headlines for growing grapes and making natural wine in four hidden vineyards right in the heart of the city. According to The Guardian, the group doesn’t have an official name, but their WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations, and one of their lots has been listed in the Urban Vineyards Association’s forthcoming world atlas.
All the grapes are harvested by hand, then treaded or foot-stomped on terraces to make wine. One of the members, Jo Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker, said that she has cultivated more than 150 vines in her garden, and that passers-by are always surprised to see rows of vines in a city street.
“It’s very on trend, but really it’s resurrecting an old way to make wine,” she adds.
Vignes en Ville- Montreal, Canada
Growing wine grapes on a city rooftop? It’s a zany concept, but the Vignes en Ville project, which translates to “vines in the city,” proves that it can be done. The urban agriculture project based in Montreal, Quebec was launched in 2016 as a study as researchers wanted to know if crushed, recycled glass can replace sand in soil mixtures and act as mulch to grow grapevines in urban developments.
After the research was completed, it began operating independently in 2022, and the project now focuses on greening neighborhoods and increasing city biodiversity.
Currently, the project operates micro vineyards in five major urban rooftops and properties, with the Palais de Congres, Montreal’s convention center, being the pilot location and main rooftop vineyard.
Other locations include Ubisoft Montreal’s rooftop deck, and the Quebec Institute of Tourism and Hotel Management rooftop, which is being used as an outdoor classroom for sommelier classes.
The project has successfully produced several bottles of rose wine, but it’s likely that the wine won’t be available for purchase soon since the yield is too low to meet local demand. Instead, Vignes en Ville plans to hold tastings in the future so more people can have a chance to sample the wine.
Independent urban viticulturists are proving that you can grow and harvest wine grapes in the most unexpected places in the city. By rewriting the rules of viticulture, these pioneering and resourceful locals are pushing boundaries and breaking new ground in the traditional world of winemaking, one bottle at a time.